Locking the fronts

Neutral

Too much front brake for the load available, or you're arriving at the pedal hard before the car has settled.

The default order

The sequence for this symptom on no car in particular, at no corner in particular. Pick both and the order changes.

1. 01
   Brake bias rearward0.5%brake

   Puts load into the rear as you trail off, letting the car rotate under braking instead of pushing wide.

   Rear can step out on hard, straight-line stops.

2. 02
   Bleed brake pressure as speed fallsto 60%technique

   On a downforce car peak braking is available at peak speed. Hold full pressure to the apex and you'll lock every time.

   None — technique, not setup.

3. 03
   Less initial pressure10%technique

   Locking at the start of the zone means peak pressure arrived before the load did. The tyre cannot hold what the weight transfer has not yet given it.

   You will need to brake slightly earlier to compensate.

4. 04
   Squeeze the pedal, do not stab itover ½ secondtechnique

   A sudden application locks before the nose has taken load, and on a bumpy entry it locks whichever wheel happens to be light.

   None — this is free and it is the first thing to try.

5. 05
   Raise the ABS setting1 levelbrake

   Earlier intervention. Longer stopping distance, far fewer flat spots.

   Costs a little peak braking.

6. 06
   Lower total brake pressure2–5%brake · adv

   With a load-cell pedal this buys finer modulation near the lock point.

   Needs more leg for maximum braking.

7. 07
   Less front negative camber0.1°geo

   Puts more of the front tyre flat on the road in a straight line, where braking happens.

   Costs mid-corner front grip.

8. 08
   Higher front tyre pressure0.5 psityre

   Sharper and cooler. Worth it if the fronts are overheating and greasy by the end of the braking zone.

   Less peak front grip.

Step sizes are a first move, not a setting. Cars differ by a factor of several in how much they respond to the same change.