Locking the front tyres
Too much front brake for the load available, or you're arriving at the pedal hard before the car has settled.
Ranked on a free car
This week's rookie circuit is free — these labs open with this symptom at its key corner, already ranked. What is free this week.
The default order
Generic order — open a lab for your car and corner.
- 01Brake bias rearward0.5%brake
Puts load into the rear as you trail off, letting the car rotate under braking instead of pushing wide.
Rear can step out on hard, straight-line stops.
- 02Bleed brake pressure as speed fallsto 60%technique
On a downforce car peak braking is available at peak speed. Hold full pressure to the apex and you'll lock every time.
None — technique, not setup.
- 03Less initial pressure10%technique
Locking at the start of the zone means peak pressure arrived before the load did. The tyre cannot hold what the weight transfer has not yet given it.
You will need to brake slightly earlier to compensate.
- 04Squeeze the pedal, do not stab itover ½ secondtechnique
A sudden application locks before the nose has taken load, and on a bumpy entry it locks whichever wheel happens to be light.
None — this is free and it is the first thing to try.
- 05Raise the ABS setting1 levelbrake
Earlier intervention. Longer stopping distance, far fewer flat spots.
Costs a little peak braking.
- 06Lower total brake pressure2–5%brake · adv
With a load-cell pedal this buys finer modulation near the lock point.
Needs more leg for maximum braking.
- 07Less front negative camber0.1°geo
Puts more of the front tyre flat on the road in a straight line, where braking happens.
Costs mid-corner front grip.
- 08Higher front tyre pressure0.5 psityre
Sharper and cooler. Worth it if the fronts are overheating and greasy by the end of the braking zone.
Less peak front grip.